Whether you’re an Esquire type a Hypebeast addict or a by-the-pound dumpster-diver the same rules apply: As the thaw settles in it’s time to lighten up. While typical rites of spring still hold true — pastels khakis and vibrant palettes replace the post-Labour Day greys heavier fabrics give way to lighter stock such as linens — 2011’s MO is decidedly conservative. No that doesn’t mean a Stephen Harper tricot.
Instead menswear — excluding Varvatos which does whatever the fuck it wants — is moving in two directions: Classic and utilitarian. Jeremy Freed editor of Sharp Canada’s stalwart men’s magazine says he expects designers to pair prep-academy clean with military- and nautical-themed workwear. The good news: For second-hand sartorialists time-tested and rugged are readily available on consignment racks.
“People want something with heritage something that’s real” says Freed in the midst of Toronto Fashion Week. “A lot of the prep lines for instance were made in the U.S. and the better stuff still is.”
Waist down it appears How to Make it in America got something right. The testy thigh-hugging grip of skinny-everything voted Calgary’s worst trend for 2010’s Best of Calgary awards seems to be relinquishing (think 501s over 511s though not JNCOs).
“As far as the workwear people are looking for something that has a little more substance to it. There’s a desire to return to a time when clothing was made with more function and durability in mind — garments you can have for 20 years. Now that’s hard to find now at any price point.”
Still leave the boxy cargo shorts at Value Village. Instead opt for cuffed jeans or dressier shorts that at best end at the knee. Who likes short shorts? Everyone apparently.
“It’s been a pet peeve of mine for years that men wear shorts that make them look like eight-year-old boys” says Freed. “At the knee or above it. Never below it.”
Along with Brooks Brothers button-ups and summer-weight blazers Freed says he’s looking forward to wearing Spectator shoes — in particular low-heeled suede Bucks. With warmer temperatures also come sandals — and while these aren’t a faux pas Freed says Jesus’s choice of footwear need be approached with caution.
“If you’re going to be wearing sandals in public consider getting a pedicure. It is absolutely fine for men to get pedicures — consider it a public service. And pick a nice sandal: Don’t go for rubber-velcro sports sandals.”
