Vero is swank without being pretentious
Sweet bistro satisfies one writer’s need for love
I’m beginning to think the parable “the key to a man’s heart is through his stomach” is actually true. After visiting Vero Bistro Moderne recently I think I might be in love.
Found on the main drag in Kensington right on 10th St. N.W. Vero is owned by the brother-and-sister team of Jenny and Frankie Chan with Jenny whose resume features La Dolce Vita the Petroleum Club Divino and Catch acting as executive chef. They opened their doors at the end of July and have been a welcome addition to the neighbourhood ever since.
The tiny yet welcoming room is brightened by a sexy red wall and peppered with high-backed red and black chairs pulled up to dark faux-marble tables. The space has a swank feel without being pretentious. Mirrors run opposite the sexy wall and down the length of the restaurant giving the illusion of space in the petite well-structured room. A small bar is nestled in the back corner.
Our service was spectacular. The staff of two — one waiter and one waitress — ran the room efficiently and effortlessly stepped in for each other over the course of our meal.
It soon became clear that this is a place for wine lovers. The daily special — pan-seared sea bass — came paired with a two-ounce pour. It’s a practice that is becoming more common and I’m all for it.
We started off our feast by ordering drinks and an appetizer. I opted to try the Kwak ale ($9) an award-winning Belgian amber ale. My date went for the mojito ($8) and we chose to share the shrimp balls ($15). The beer was fantastic — crisp with nice caramel overtones and the mojito was a tasty and refreshing version of the Cuban classic.
Before our appetizer arrived we were treated to a homemade cranberry baguette served with a heart-shaped pat of butter infused with lemon fig and pink peppercorns. As the waitress put it “this is from our executive chef Jenny. It’s her way of saying ‘welcome to my heart.’”
The shrimp balls arrived perfectly golden brown and sitting in a lettuce leaf. The four delectable balls were filled with mango cheddar and topped with a mango drizzle served beside baby greens and a raspberry coulis. The crispy shell was offset by the moist interior and all four were gobbled up quickly.
For our main courses I tried the filet mignon and vanilla-and-citrus-scented jumbo sea scallop ($38) served with a wild mushroom ragout oyster cream grilled vine-ripened tomato and sweet corn polenta. My date ordered the lobster-and-scallop tortellini ($25) served with organic mushrooms ricotta lobster cappuccino sauce and lemon spinach.
Again the food was all fantastic as was the overall theme and tone of our meal. Based on the expression on my date’s face when she tried the lemon spinach I’m confident the meal was above and beyond expectations.
I ordered an Erdinger Weissbrau wheat ale from Germany ($9) — described as having a hint of banana and cloves — to go with my meal. While I liked it it wasn’t on par with the Kwak.
All of the food was beautifully plated. My steak was cooked to a lovely medium rare and melted like butter. Its accompanying giant scallop was cooked perfectly.
For dessert we savoured the crème caramel ($10) and mocha tiramisu ($10) and I also had a latte ($5) which came with a mini homemade biscotti and a heart etched into the foam — a subtle but nice touch.
Just when we thought we were done and ready for our cheque we were presented with one more special treat: in-house crafted truffles filled with Baileys Kahlúa and Grand Marnier. A most unexpected and welcome change from the typical after-dinner mint.
Vero also offers a promising tapas menu in addition to its regular fare Tuesday to Sunday nights after 9 p.m. (closed Mondays) and is open until 2 a.m. on the weekends. I can’t imagine it will be long before we’re back at Vero ready to sample some late-night treats.
Although it was Jenny who welcomed us into her heart at the beginning of the meal by the time we were done Vero Bistro — its ambience staff and menu — found a spot in mine.
