Japan producing some damn fine drams
It may come as a surprise to some but Japan makes some amazing whiskies and is the third largest whisky market in the world. Japan’s journey into whisky started in 1919 when Shinjiro Torii son of a sake brewer set out to Scotland to learn the fine art of distillation (and probably a lot about culture shock). Returning to Japan in 1923 with a Scottish bride in tow Shinjiro is now recognized as the father of Japanese whisky. He built the Suntory distillery — Japan’s oldest — on the outskirts of Kyoto in the valley of the Yamazaki River.
For some time many believed whisky not produced in Scotland was crap. With countries like India Australia and Japan distilling great drams this is no longer the case. Like these other countries Japanese whisky began as an effort to re-create Scotch but the quality has been getting better over the years and Japanese whisky now holds its own on the global stage. A good whisky is born of pure water and a climate where cool temperatures and high humidity create an ideal maturation environment. Suntory distillery is situated in just such an area. Yamazaki is made from lightly peated barley malt and both the 18- and 12-year-old whiskies are a cross between the smoky peaty Islay style of Scotch the lighter and more floral notes of Speyside Scotch and a style all their own.
Japan boasts one of the youngest whisky industries in the world only attracting the attention of global connoisseurs in the last 30 years. Suntory originally set out to distill a dram that whisky drinkers around the world would appreciate and it has accomplished just that. Yamazaki is ranked the world’s ninth bestselling whisky .
Some of Suntory’s whiskies are aged in used sherry or bourbon casks like Scotch while others are stored in heavily charred new oak barrels like bourbon. They are then blended for the perfect cornucopia of flavours.
• Yamazaki 12-year-old (43 per cent) — this is the gentler of the two and demonstrates a superb balance of three oak barrel types (American Spanish and Japanese). The round calming nose has a pleasant woodiness with notes of vanilla and prune. The flavour is tranquil with hints of apples berries and oranges over a faintly smoky peaty base and a long sherry finish.
• The Yamazaki 18-year-old (43 per cent) — this whisky is Godzilla big when compared to the 12-year-old and the better choice to end an evening with. It has a darker more vibrant copper colour with enticing aromas of toffee honey walnuts and mandarins. The peat is barely detectable in the nose. The flavour of this monster starts with subtle sherry and ends with a big peaty dry finish. Given the boldness of the 18-year-old it is amazing to discover that both whiskies have the same alcohol percentage.
Both of these whiskies are fine on their own but are even more intense with a splash of water. Although it may horrify some whisky aficionados both are good on the rocks as well.
