Corey Pierce
Banyuls are perfect for the Calgary climate
In the deep south of France just a few miles from the Spanish border lies the rustic seaside village of Banyuls Sur Mer. Artists such as Matisse and Picasso were drawn here for the sheer beauty of the sea and rugged landscape which they portrayed in their dazzling paintings. This once sleepy fishing village has gained fame for more than its natural splendoir ; it is also known for its unique style of wine.
Grape vines are an inescapable part of the setting here planted many centuries before the beginning of the Christian calendar. Greeks and Phoenicians both understood the value of this place with its steep schist hillsides and baking sun. These twisted vines add to the drama of the region clinging to impossibly steep vineyards baking in the heat and battling the relentless wind known locally as the “Tramontane.” Despite its rich history and distinct wines few North Americans have discovered the wonders of Banyuls.
Banyuls is a Grenache-based fortified wine that has been made since the 13th century when the method of mutage was discovered. An Alchemist named Arnaud de Villeneuve found that when he added a grape-based spirit to a fermenting wine the fermentation would stop as the yeasts became overwhelmed by the alcohol. The resulting wine was left naturally sweet from the unfermented sugars left in the grapes. This is essentially the same process used to make port the world’s most famous fortified wine. French wines using this process are known as Vins Doux Naturels or “Naturally Sweet Wines” of which Banyuls is one of the best known.
Banyuls is made primarily from the Grenache Noir grape (minimum of 50 per cent or 75 per cent for Grand Cru) but Grenache Gris Grenache Blanc and Carignane are also sometimes employed. Banyuls is allowed to ferment until the must reaches about 6 per cent alcohol then the spirit is added raising the alcohol to about 15 to 17 per cent or about the same as your average American Zinfandel. The finished wine is sweet but savoury with incredible spice and richness. There are two main styles for Banyuls; the first is simply finished in large casks and bottled at the appropriate time usually within a year or two of vintage. The second known as “rancio” involves leaving the bottles or “bonbonnes” (large glass carboys) out in the sun to slowly oxidize and impart a unique caramel-like flavour.
Although fortified wine seems to have a limited audience here in Alberta Banyuls may just be the perfect drink for our climate. With less alcohol than port and all the warmth and character you desire Banyuls makes a delicious finale to any meal and offers a great way to warm up after a day on the hill. Described as the ultimate match for chocolate desserts Banyuls is receiving an increased audience from progressive restaurateurs (The Living Room is one in Calgary) and those looking for interesting ways to conclude a dinner party.
When you compare it to alternatives such as icewine tawny port or Sauternes Banyuls provides incredible value for your wine-drinking dollar and delivers you to one of the most ancient and traditional regions in the world. Banyuls is a land of artisans working a harsh land far removed from the corporate wine world. Vineyards are still tended by hand by passionate and dedicated stewards. These farmers are bound by tradition to crafting wines few people understand. Tasting Banyuls is like stepping into another time when wine was not a fashionable drink but simply a natural part of life.
Great picks for Banyuls:
• 2007 Domaine Madeloc Banyuls 750ml $39.95 — Fresh floral aromas of ripe plum and dried cherries are followed by complex spices and a soft finish that offers just a hint of sweetness. This drinks more like a table wine than a dessert wine.
• 2006 Domaine du Traginer Banyuls 500ml $39.95 — Aromas of figs and Christmas cake make this really drinkable not overly sweet and no signs of hot alcohol.
• N.V. Domaine Madeloc Robert Pages Rancio 500ml $31.00 — Sultana raisin and butterscotch notes give this incredible character and aromatics. This is a great match for sticky puddings or any chocolate dessert.
