Sister delis serve Montreal’s finest no cussing
If there’s a definitive Montreal smoked meat experience I’ve had it: Elbow to elbow in a packed Schwartz’s Deli on Montreal’s Saint-Laurent Boulevard — a veritable smoked meat mecca. I was cussed out by one of the famously crotchety old guys that runs the joint for improperly eating my sandwich. That is using a knife and fork — that I’d been given no less — to carve and eat the massive stack of sliced meat I’d been served. “Where the fuck you learn to eat like that?”
My lunch companion a Montreal resident covered for both my apparently crazy eating habits and my stunned speechlessness: “He’s Italian.”
As iconic as Schwartz’s is it’s not the only smoked meat shack in Montreal and as delicious as its monster sandwiches are plenty of other restaurants serve the city’s titular meal in their own style.
And I know for a fact that Calgarians can eat Montreal smoked meat sandwiches that rival Montreal’s myriad offerings. I just consumed one the other day at Avenue Deli in Marda Loop boasting the carnivorous motto: “Meat to please you.” Late spoiler alert: the place serves good sandwiches.
The small corner deli has just five booths opposite a central counter and sandwich-prep area. It also has a small outdoor patio (for summer use naturally) with three or four tables. My guest and I ordered at the till and our regular-cut Montreal smoked meat sandwiches ($10) with house-blend mustard (choose from seven varieties) were quickly delivered to our table on checkered waxed paper in baskets.
Between two slices of soft light rye bread was a tall helping of sliced smoked brisket imported from Quebec. Steamed and cut cross-grain what was once a tough piece of meat is made light soft and almost sweet. It’s a real pleasure to sink one’s teeth into.
The sandwiches are served with a small wax cup of coleslaw and another of potato chips (choose regular dill or barbecue). I wasn’t interested in the chips but our server gladly substituted more coleslaw. The carrot-and-cabbage slaw was done with a punchy vinaigrette that complemented such a big helping of meat further cutting its heaviness.
Formerly The Palace of Eats Myhre’s Deli on 11th Street S.W. is Avenue’s sister restaurant. Proprietor Brad Myhre also operates the Galaxie and Belmont diners. Even smaller than the petite Avenue Myhre’s was beautifully constructed using wood and wares salvaged from a downtown lunch counter that closed in the 1960s. The restaurant’s interior had been put in storage for decades until Myhre purchased it. As a result it’s got cozy comfortable vintage character with booths opposite an ancient wood-grain counter-kitchen.
Though the two delis’ signature dish is the smoked meat sandwich both serve a small selection of other classic deli sandwiches including the Reuben Bagel with lox pesto chicken and grilled cheese. They also now serve Nathan’s hot dogs. Today I’m at Myhre’s. My guest and I’ve just finished a wax-paper cup of the day’s soup creamy coconut chicken ($4.50). The golden yellow soup was steamy hot thick with flavour and full of red pepper slices and melt-in-your-mouth chicken chunks.
I also happily munch on a regular Rueben ($10). This old-school departure from the meaty purity of the classic smoked meat sandwich sports the vinegar crunch of Polish sauerkraut thin-sliced gouda and horseradish mustard (my choice). It’s expertly executed rye bread grilled to a perfect toasty crunch a crisp pickle slice chips and coleslaw on the side.
My guest and I trade sandwich halves. I take a huge bite of her roasted turkey sandwich ($11) with its big stack of warm sliced white meat and its exacting combo of capicollo ham gouda cheese and red pepper mayo. The mayo really makes the sandwich.
These sister delis may not be Schwartz’s but that’s no criticism. If you can stand not being cussed out (my servers at both places were speedy and polite) they’re excellent hangouts in which to eat excellent smoked meat and other classic deli sandwiches.
