Corey Pierce
Grape trends unpredictable but Grenache a good bet
Is Grenache going to be the new Pinot Noir?
Wine trends are unpredictable but it wouldn’t be the first time people changed their drinking habits and it’s always good to be one step ahead and ready for change.
It’s been seven years since the cult flick Sideways changed how North Americans think about wine. Perhaps I shouldn’t be shocked that a single film could so drastically change the drinking habits of so many.
After all we take fashion cues from movies all the time. What does surprise me however is the seemingly permanent transformation that has taken hold of wine drinkers as they continue to eschew Merlot and flock to Pinot Noir.
Pinot has had a great run and almost every wine-producing nation worth its salt has gotten in on the action but it seems we ought to be moving on. There has to be life after Pinot Noir right?
Let’s face it Pinot Noir is a world-class grape and when it’s on top of its game nothing can touch it. But finding affordable and interesting examples is only getting tougher so I think it’s high time we widen the search parameters to see what else is out there.
First we need to figure out just what it is we like so much about Pinot Noir and consider what if anything Pinot Noir has taught us about wine. Hopefully we’ve learned that wine doesn’t have to be massive to be good and that the amount of time you have to spend brushing the wine stains off your teeth in the morning does not equate to the quality of the wine.
Pinot Noir has also shown us that wine can take on a sense of where it comes from. If you’ve run the Pinot gamut then you’ve probably noticed the French versions taste pretty different from the American versions the New Zealanders and so on. Pinot Noir brings with it a sense of place and this is perhaps its greatest asset but Pinot is not alone in its ability to channel its origin.
So now we know what we’re looking for — a grape with Pinot’s scrumptious understated character combined with its incredible display of diversity and sense of place. And if it’s not too much to ask could we also get the odd bargain?
One type stands out and screams “Pick me pick me” and that grape is Grenache.
Grenache can be every bit as silky smooth as Pinot Noir and it also tempts you with its haunting aromas from the sun-soaked Southern Rhone or the dry and dusty Barossa Valley. And unlike Pinot Noir we shouldn’t have too much trouble finding modestly priced versions of it. Grenache happens to be the most planted red grape variety on the planet yet you rarely see its name splashed across the front of a bottle of wine.
Humble Grenache doesn’t hog the limelight as it prefers to shy away and let the place shine through be it the famed Chateauneuf-du-Pape or the tried and true Cotes-du-Rhone.
It’s possible to consume Grenache on a regular basis and never even know you’re drinking the stuff; maybe that’s why it’s taken so long for people to figure out just how good this grape can be.
But all that could soon change and the unlikely source for this transformation may come from the United States. While California doesn’t have a rich or storied past with Grenache the state is perhaps best positioned to lead the charge. More and more Grenache is going into the ground across California and the best examples are garnering a lot of attention.
Some of the most profound wines in the past five years have come from the humble locale of Paso Robles a small farming region about halfway between San Francisco and Los Angeles. Wine critics have done a lot of chattering lately about this area and Grenache is at the forefront of many of these great wines. So what’s the big difference between these wines and the Grenache we’ve already been drinking? They’re actually putting Grenache on the label.
Wine trends are hard to predict but in the case of Grenache it looks like a pretty good bet. A Grenache craze certainly wouldn’t upset the Aussies who are desperately searching for something to replace the once popular Shiraz as sales have ground to a halt. Spain’s desperate economy could use a lift and they’ve got legions of Grenache vines ready to craft into wines for Pinot-weary North Americans. If you feel like you’re done with Pinot and are looking for a charismatic alternative maybe it’s time to invite a little Grenache into your life. Here are a few to get you started:
• 2007 Montirius Jardin Secret Cotes du Rhone $27: A rare 100 per cent example of Grenache from a single vineyard in Sablet. This is profound wine for under $30.
• 2009 Camplezans GrenacheLanguedoc $18: If you like ’em juicy and fresh you simply must try this wine. A friendlier version would be hard to imagine.
• 2007 Montpezat Palombieres Coteaux du Languedoc $22: At 80 per cent Grenache this wine offers a richer version showcasing Grenache’s spicier side.
