Oily espresso and ‘coffee-flavoured water’ take the cake for the upteenth time
Once upon a time there was a coffeehouse. After serving its first shot of espresso in 2007 at the old Calgary Farmers’ Market the founders of the store charged on to train some of the most talented baristas in the country open two more immaculately designed stores and obsessively purchase among the highest quality and most justly priced beans in the world.
And then they scored a bronze medal in this year’s Best of Calgary poll.
Wait a second. Stop the press. That’s not how this fairy tale is meant to end. Perhaps if Phil & Sebastian the aforementioned café was located in Portland then the resulting bewilderment could be rationalized. After all coffee may have been discovered in Ethiopia but it was perfected in the downpour of the Pacific Northwest (with some aid from roasters in Chicago Durham and Northern Europe).
But that’s not the case. Instead the bohemian Caffé Beano took the crown. There’s nothing wrong with the occasional hipster but when the staff can’t produce any cupping notes of the beans in the espresso hopper except that it’s “dark” then there’s a problem. Beano’s space may be cool but their coffee definitely isn’t worthy of first place. And that’s what this poll judges right?
With an automatic espresso machine and a peculiar absence of roast date on their coffee Higher Ground somehow managed to retain their position in the top two after sliding down a notch from last year’s top prize. There’s no question that the fireplace is cozy but as a Yelp reviewer stated their beverages resemble “coffee-flavoured water.”
C’mon Calgary. As Joel Schulz who describes himself as the “fussiest SOB alive when it comes to coffee” (he says that because he’s a professional barista judge) says “people need to be more aware of who Phil & Sebastian are.”
And maybe that’s part of the problem. Although co-founder Phil Robertson voices his disappointment at the polling process (which is inherently flawed due to demographics) he admits that marketing and promotion isn’t the café’s strength.
“I wouldn’t say that we are bad communicators but it’s not the first thing we get up in the morning to do” Robertson says. “Both Sebastian and I are more inclined with limited time to put our efforts towards doing coffee instead of talking about coffee.”
And with that disclaimer and due recognition to the fact that many Fast Forward Weekly readers congregate at Caffé Beano a challenge is now being issued.
Hop on the southbound No. 7 bus. Saunter down 33rd Avenue S.W. And even if it’s just once treat yourself to a single-origin yellow bourbon Brazilian espresso. Look for hints of almond raspberry dried apple and caramel. You’ll thank yourself after the first shot and then mosey up to the counter for another.
This isn’t an attempt to alter your palate; everyone is entitled to their own tastes as evidenced by this poll’s results. This is a suggestion to break from the mould and explore a true cultural treat that Calgary should consider itself lucky to have.
Maybe if enough people accept the formidable challenge Phil & Sebastian could one day find itself holding the winner’s trophy.
And just to keep the record straight I work at Fratello’s Analog Café on weekends. It’s fair to say that the two companies are competitive rivals.
