Corey Pierce
Rosé makes a comeback
It was a hot and sunny afternoon and I was headed to a friend’s house for a barbecue. Although this happened nearly 14 years ago now I still remember the day well. With a couple of perfectly chilled bottles of pink wine tucked under my arm I arrived on the scene and said my hellos. I then handed the bottles to my host and said zealously “Go ahead and crack these they should be perfect for today!” But my enthusiasm was soon quelled. He glared half-heartedly down at the pink-hued wines and with a look that merged both shock and disappointment shot back “Blush? I thought you were supposed to be a wine guy?” My heart sank as I thought “This can’t still be how people view rosé — can it?”
So I went to work explaining to my friend and anyone else who would listen that rosé is not blush — a word invented in the U.S. to describe the wildly popular sweet white Zinfandels of the day.
No this was traditional French rosé and couldn’t be further from the junk they had taken it for. So I grabbed a few glasses and poured them out for everyone to taste as words are really no substitute for tasting the stuff after all. Funny thing about rosé though once you get people drinking it they don’t want to stop. They quickly drained my two bottles and were soon clambering for more so it seems the only tough part is getting people to try it in the first place.
Rosé has had a rough time shaking the trashy white Zin identity of the ’80s but it’s finally gaining some momentum with wine drinkers here in Calgary. Just 10 years ago suggesting a pink wine to a male customer was likely to earn you a sarcastic retort followed up by a stern declaration of heterosexuality. Back then we sold it to the wives and tried to get them to sneak a glass to their husbands. But today even the burliest of men are getting in on the pink wine scene. Perhaps it’s because more of us are travelling abroad the French drink more rosé than white wine and if you’re sitting on any beach in the south of France a chilled glass of rosé seems obligatory. The good news is that the quality of rosé on the market has never been higher. In fact if you stay away from the sweeter versions it’s pretty tough to find a bad bottle in any decent wine store. Having said that rosé is not all made the same and depending on the grape region and technique used you can find an incredible diversity of styles.
Rosé can be made in a few different ways. The first is called saignée taken from the French word to “bleed.” In this method red grapes are run through a crusher and left to ferment in a stainless steel tank. Once the desired colour has been achieved the juice is pumped off the skins into another tank and left to finish fermentation. In Provence they tend to make a more pale version of rosé only using a short maceration but further north in the Rhone Valley the village of Tavel makes rosé that behaves much more like red wine with a deep dark pink hue. Both styles are valid and it just comes down to what you prefer to drink that day. The other way to make rosé is to take a finished white wine and blend in some red but outside of Champagne this technique is rarely used for quality wines today. Although you can get rosé in practically any wine-producing nation there are some that offer better bang for your buck.
Spain is perhaps the greatest source for rosé offering a mind-boggling selection at almost laughable prices. One of the factors that makes Spain such a great source for rosé is the proliferation of Garnacha (Grenache en Français) planted there. Garnacha is perhaps (at least in my humble opinion) the greatest grape for making quality rosé. It offers just the right amount of colour while delivering pleasant aromas of wild strawberry and bright fresh fruit on the palate. The Spanish love it and therefore consume a massive amount but they also export a lot of the stuff making them the top source for value-conscious rosé hunters.
Of course France also cranks out an amazing amount of pink wine. The traditional regions include the Loire the Rhone Valley and all of the south. The Loire versions made mostly from Cabernet Franc deliver more spice and acidity making them great for the table especially if you’re consuming something that used to reside in water. The southern versions while great with food also make for a sensational cocktail hour.
We are also seeing more rosé from Australia the U.S. South America and even Canada these days. While these are often very good you tend to pay a bit of a premium for North American versions but they can be worth a splurge every now and then. The Argentines are getting in on the action with some Malbec rosés that can also be very tasty.
You really can’t beat a chilled glass of rosé on a hot day. It brings a little more spice and personality than white wine or beer and seems to complement just about any food (roasted chicken and salmon are two favourites for me). Rosé also happens to be about the best wine you can serve with turkey during the holidays but with our short Calgary summer maybe it’s a bit early to start thinking about that. So before your next backyard gathering go out to your favourite wine shop and ask for some suggestions for good rosé and just watch the clerk’s eyes light up. Wine people seem to have a remarkable affection for rosé and love sharing their finds. But if you’re stuck and need some advice here’s a few good deals that won’t put you in the red. Remember that with rosé younger is better.
• 2010 Ochoa Rosado Garnacha — Navarra Spain ($15) — Hints of orange and strawberry with a nice touch of spice.
• 2009 Lafond Tavel —Rhone Valley France ($20) — This is the darker side of rosé with cranberry raspberry and lots of body.
• 2009 Houchart Rose — Provence France ($18) — A paler style with aromas of mandarin and a light fresh finish.
