Vincci Tsui
What exactly is a bakehouse? If Corbeaux (“ravens” en français) Bakehouse is any indication it is part bakery-café part bustling bistro and part sleek wine bar open from the first cup of coffee in the morning to the last sip of wine late at night. So far people seem to love the concept — my fiancé and I popped in on a weeknight and managed to snag one of the last tables available while the line at the café snaked around the bakery display case of this new venue which opened in December.
The menu printed on each placemat is split into different “departments” each with a selection of small plates meant for sharing. The Bakery Butcher Shop Cheese Shop and Pastries departments are self-explanatory while the Kitchen cooks up some hot appetizers as well as a few main dishes and the Storeroom offers a selection of condiments including Northern Divine caviar ($30) sourced from B.C. There is also a list of daily specials posted on the wall which rotates between comfort foods like Sourdough Fried Chicken and Mama Prefontaine’s Beef Sugo.
We decided to share the steam bread ($2.50) from the Bakery and the crispy duck wings ($13) and the Bakehouse Burger ($14) from the Kitchen. My dietitian-guilt then kicked in so I also ordered the Veggie of the Day which on that particular evening was roasted beets with a honey glaze ($9). Despite the crowd service was quick and all our food arrived at the same time.
It’s obvious why Corbeaux calls itself a bakehouse — because its baked goods are good. The steam bread their take on Chinese steamed bao was warm light and fluffy. Given the growing popularity of steamed buns in the city as seen at Eats of Asia and Taiko Taco I would have gladly paid more for a filled bun as their current side of hoisin-chili sauce looked like it came straight out of a bottle (or technically two bottles I guess).
The housemade brioche roll is the highlight of the Bakehouse Burger; soft airy and slightly sweet it sandwiches a thick Alberta beef patty topped with bacon tomato preserves Mornay sauce and pickles all made in-house. The burger is refined and I loved the small assortment of housemade pickles that also came on the plate.
The crispy duck wings are one of the most popular items on the Corbeaux menu and with the slightly crisped skin and tender meat it’s easy to see why. I think I would have liked a bit more of the sweet chili glaze on the plate though. The beets were the only real miss for me — I prefer them a bit softer and I found the dish to be quite savoury lacking any hint of the promised honey glaze.
For dessert there’s an option to choose anything from Corbeaux’s pastry display case (most are market price) or for $15 take the “Grand Tour” and get an assortment of desserts. We decided to go for the warm brioche doughnuts ($6) which have been popular on social media — the mini-doughnuts come hot from the fryer dusted with spiced sugar. By themselves they were light and airy but quite bland as they are meant to be vehicles for the gobs and gobs of lemon curd they’re served with. My fiancé said the bakers were being lazy and should have put the lemon curd in the doughnut (notably there was a large lemon curd doughnut in the display case) but I like to be in the driver’s seat when it comes to my lemon curd-to-doughnut ratio.
Corbeaux is a lovely addition to 17th Avenue S.W. — designer Sarah Ward has done a spectacular job transforming the former Melrose space to a Parisian-inspired establishment and whether you’re there for a meal or just a coffee there’s a little something for everyone. Though I wasn’t particularly wowed by the dinner menu I will certainly drop in for more baked treats — if I can find a seat.
