Courtesy of Kari Medig
Things look decidedly different at Panorama Mountain Village these days. The last time I was on the hill more than 20 years ago the village wasn’t there and what passed for a lodge was really a couple of ATCO trailers stuck together. The mountain had fewer runs and there certainly wasn’t any double-black diamond terrain.
Long gone is the crummy little day lodge replaced with condos pools a bar and some restaurants circling high-speed quads that whisk you up the greatly expanded hill. From our room in the Ski Tip Lodge we could look out the bedroom window to the top of the mountain mere spitting distance from the main lift.
Panorama has grown up but it has managed to avoid pretension.
Arriving on a Friday we check in at the central office that handles rooms for the village. Our condo is located directly above the main lodge with views of the outdoor pools two chairlifts and the other condo buildings forming a curve around this central area.
We head to the newly opened Monticola for a dinner organized for a handful of journalists by Panorama. This is the more upscale eatery at the base of the hill but it’s not fancy and doesn’t try to be. The room is warm and welcoming and features Italian fare including flatbreads ($13 to $15) pastas ($14 to $20) and entrées like lemon herb chicken ($24) and pesto-crusted yellowfin tuna ($26). Despite being brand new the service and the food both hit the mark though the cynic in me feels compelled to point out that we were part of an official group.
In the morning it was time to hit the hill. The snow wasn’t great with plenty of rocks and branches on the slopes. That said Panorama does a good job with grooming even reaching the steep slope of Top of the World. The terrain is greatly improved since the last time I was there 20-plus years ago with the Summit Quad servicing black and double-black runs spread over three faces.
While the mountain specializes in intermediate and beginner runs which fit nicely into its niche as a family resort it’s great that there are other options including the challenging Taynton Bowl — a secluded playground off the back end of the summit.
By late afternoon on Saturday we were taken to the Elkhorn Cabin an old ranch house that was dragged up the mountain in order to serve raclette and drinks to skiers with enough foresight to book a reservation. It’s just one of three small lodges located on the mountain. Elkhorn offers stunning views of the valley from its large windows and wrap-around deck. It’s small inside but that just adds to the cozy atmosphere. The beer and wine flow and the raclette is fun and fantastic. Skiing down the hill after dinner in the dark the hill lit only by provided headlamps was a wonderful experience.
Also wonderful was a dip in the outdoor hot pools located just off the main lift area. There is a regular pool open in the summer months but for winter there are still two large hot tubs and one large warm pool as well as a sauna to loosen up tired muscles.
By the next morning the weather gods had come through and big fluffy snow was still falling after a full night of flurries. The powder was calling but first we headed to the rk heliski lodge to learn about the operation and its 1500-square-kilometers of terrain. This is definitely something to consider if you’ve got some extra money in your pocket but will prove too costly for most.
Finally hitting the hill the snow was deep and light highlighting what this hill has to offer with a fresh layer. It’s a great time with the various bowls and faces providing an excellent diversity of runs.
There is only one real problem with Panorama at this stage of its development and that’s the connections. It’s a lengthy journey to get to Taynton Bowl and at the end of a run you’re forced onto a long trail in order to get back to the base of the hill. If you want to return to the bowl you’re looking at three chairlift rides which takes considerable time before you’re back at the top. The same is true of the fun runs through the Sun Bowl although it takes less time and only requires two lift rides.
President and CEO Steve Paccagnan says more lifts are being considered in the master plan. The hill has decided along with the homeowners association that all profits for the next eight years will be put back into developing the hill which should yield some great infrastructure. There are five potential new lifts under consideration including a chair dedicated to the expert terrain on Taynor and one to make Sun Bowl more accessible. I hope those plans go through.
All in all Panorama has done a great job of growing up. The T-Bar and Grill located at the base of the hill has reasonable prices decent food and drinks on offer and manages to retain the feel of a proper ski bar and not some Disneyfied re-creation. It’s fun and lively. The village is accessible and provides an excellent option for families and groups of friends alike.
