Scott Kowalchuk
Merlot suffered a stunning reversal of fortune. What’s next?
“No. If anyone orders Merlot I’m leaving. I am not drinking any fucking Merlot!”
It’s been five years since Paul Giamatti uttered those resounding words in the cult flick Sideways sending the once darling Merlot grape into a tailspin. As the hip crowd rushed out to experience the joys and wonders of Pinot Noir they left merlot behind like a baggy pair of acid-washed jeans. Merlot producers were blindsided suddenly unable to sell a drop of what had been a rock-solid cash crop for over a decade.
Fashions change in wine that’s nothing new but never before have the tastes of so many shifted so quickly. Pinot Noir has managed to stay on top for five years seeing unprecedented growth in almost every sector while Merlot still lumbers trying desperately to negotiate a comeback. Was it really just the ramblings of this lovable movie wino or were consumers already tired of Merlot and waiting for the next big thing?
In the mid 1990s it seemed Merlot could do no wrong. The Chileans had cornered the market on $10 plonk while the folks in Napa couldn’t put enough $40 bottles on their shelves; everyone was drinking Merlot. More and more North Americans were discovering wine and Merlot seemed the perfect grape to ease them into these strange new waters. Not too tannic not too heavy nice soft fruit — all in all pretty easy stuff to like. But soon the first chinks in Merlot’s armour started to appear. As more people got in on the action poorer and poorer examples of the grape began to show up. These reliably soft fruity and amiable wines were increasingly green astringent and washed out. Merlot was clearly on the downslide.
Consumers who cut their teeth on this soft and simple wine were looking for something new something more exciting — hell anything but more Merlot. Then along came Giamatti with his impassioned plea for the misunderstood and oh-so-charming Pinot Noir and just like that the world had its new vinous infatuation. Trend-spotting grape farmers quickly converted their vineyards from Merlot to Pinot Noir wherever they could hoping to catch a piece of the action. Those dedicated to Merlot dropped their prices deciding to wait it out in hopes the varietal would one day be back on top.
Although it hasn’t happened yet it’s not difficult to imagine that Pinot Noir could suffer the same fate as Merlot particularly as less inspiring examples start to infiltrate merchant’s shelves. The big question is where consumers will turn after Pinot Noir? A major move back to Merlot seems unlikely at this point — been there done that. Today’s wine drinker views Merlot like baby food a necessary way to start out but nothing worth going back to. It’s a shame really because those who stuck with Merlot are making better wines than ever before.
So it’s anyone’s guess where consumers will turn now but I would be willing to bet that a love affair with Grenache can’t be far off. If you drink much wine you’ve probably already swallowed more Grenache than you realize — it’s the main component in most Côtes du Rhône and the ever-popular Châteaunuef du Pape. Grenache is launching a major league comeback in the south of France and even growers in North America are starting to pay it a little more attention. It wouldn’t take much imagination to picture a nation of Pinot Noir hounds turning their attentions to Grenache. They share the same soft and silky mouthfeel but Grenache offers a touch more weight and perhaps delivers a little more bang-for-the-buck than the average Pinot. It’s unlikely Grenache will ever duplicate the coup d’état that Pinot Noir induced but I’ll be watching for a more subtle dethroning… a quiet revolution of sorts.
Grassroots Grenache:
2008 Atteca Old Vine Grenache Spain — This wine demonstrates the dark side of Grenache — exotic aromas of figs and sultana raisins followed by a ripe and beastly palate.
Little James Basket Press France (non-vintage) — Pretty bright and perfumed aromas wrapped up in an elegant but alluring wine.
2007 Domaine Paul Autard Côtes du Rhône France — Notes of sun-baked scrub brush and roasted game meat with a gritty and structured finish.
2007 Domaine Joncier “Le Gourmand” Lirac France — Bright and inviting aromas of raspberry and ripe plums soft and oh so delicious.
